Our 2025 Fall Adventure

Travel Budget & Expenses

Total Trip Cost: €3,595.26

Ferry Crossings (Croatia)

1. Sep 13: Split → Supetar (Brač) | €39.10 (19km)
2. Sep 17: Supetar (Brač) → Split | €39.10 (19km)
3. Sep 17: Split → Stari Grad (Hvar) | €64.40 (43km)
4. Sep 21: Sućuraj (Hvar) → Drvenik | €27.90 (7km)
5. Sep 21: Orebić → Dominče (Korčula) | €25.00 (4km)
6. Sep 24: Vela Luka (Korčula) → Ubli (Lastovo) | €44.80 (38km)
7. Sep 28: Ubli (Lastovo) → Vela Luka (Korčula) | €44.80 (38km)
8. Sep 28: Dominče (Korčula) → Orebić | €25.00 (4km)

Ferry Total: €310.10

Accommodation

Coastal Croatia (Islands)

• Brač: (4 nights) | €200.00
• Hvar: (4 nights) | €188.00
• Korčula: (3 nights) | €165.00
• Lastovo: (4 nights) | €160.00
• Subtotal (Islands): €713.00

International & Return Part

• Shkodër (AL): €62.48
• Koman (AL): €80.00
• Prizren (XK): €50.00
• Skopje (MK): €80.00
• Ohrid (MK): €62.50
• Tirana (AL): 9,500 LEK (€97.48)
• Durrës (AL): €76.50
• Sveti Stefan (ME): €60.00
• Cavtat (HR): €169.30
• Skradin (HR): €50.00
• Subtotal (International/Return): €788.28

Accommodation Total: €1,501.28

Fuel & Transportation

• Sep 3: €47.56
• Sep 21: €55.00
• Sep 28: €25.41 (€1.34/liter)
• Oct 5: €34.19 (70 MKD/liter)
• Oct 12: €43.51

Fuel Total: €205.67

Daily Expenses & Other

• Dining & Groceries: €904.36 (Restaurants, cafes, and markets)
• Activities: €795.87 (Tours, tickets, and sightseeing)
• Parking: €62.60
• Souvenirs: €25.00
• Miscellaneous: €100.50

Mileage & Routes

Total Distance Covered: 3,124.6 km (Car: 2,918 km | Ferry: 206.6 km)

Part 1: The Croatian Islands & Coast

Driving through islands of Dalmatia.

• Zagreb to Split: 412 km
• Brač Island Exploration:
  • Supetar to Bol: 36 km
  • Bol ↔ Vidova Gora (Round trip): 58 km
  • Bol ↔ Olive Oil Museum, Škrip (Round trip): 64 km
  • Bol to Supetar: 36 km
• Hvar Island Adventures:
  • Stari Grad Port to Apartment: 5 km
  • Stari Grad ↔ Pokonji Dol Beach & Hvar Town: 45.5 km
  • The “Golden Triangle” (Stari Grad – Vrboska – Soline – Jelsa): 27 km
  • Stari Grad ↔ Fortica Fortress: 41 km
  • Stari Grad to Sućuraj (East Cape): 62 km
• Pelješac & Korčula:
  • Drvenik to Orebić: 97 km
  • Korčula Town ↔ Lumbarda (Local trips): 20 km
  • Lumbarda ↔ Pupnatska Luka Beach & Shopping: 43 km
  • Lumbarda to Vela Luka: 45 km
• Lastovo Island (The Remote Gem):
  • Ubli to Pasadur: 3 km
  • Pasadur ↔ Lastovo Village (Round trip): 34 km

First Part Total (Car): 1,029.5 km

Part 2: The Balkan Loop

From the Adriatic to the landscapes of Albania, Kosovo, and North Macedonia.

• Heading South:
  • Vela Luka to Dominče (Korčula): 40 km
  • Orebić to Kamenari (Montenegro): 170 km
  • Lepetane to Shkodër (Albania): 114 km
• Into the Wild:
  • Shkodër to Rozafa Castle (Skadarska kula): 4.5 km
  • Shkodër to Koman: 52 km
  • Koman (Hotel to Ferry): 5 km
  • Fierza to Prizren (Kosovo): 88 km
• Capital Cities & Lakes:
  • Prizren to Skopje (North Macedonia): 102 km
  • Skopje to Ohrid: 181 km
  • Ohrid to Tirana (Albania): 136 km
  • Tirana (City & Dajti Express Cable Car): 12 km
  • Tirana to Durrës: 40 km
• The Return:
  • Durrës to Lake Skadar: 189 km
  • Lake Skadar to Sveti Stefan (Montenegro): 33 km
  • Sveti Stefan to Lepetane: 36 km
  • Kamenari to Cavtat (Croatia): 47 km
  • Cavtat ↔ Dubrovnik (Round trip): 42 km
  • Cavtat to Skradin: 304 km
  • Skradin to Zagreb: 330 km

Second Part Total (Car): 1,888.5 km

Distance by Ferry

Giving the car a rest (or no other option) while we enjoyed the sea.

Region	Distance
Croatia (Island hopping)	172 km
Montenegro (Kamenari-Lepetane)	0.6 km
Albania (Lake Koman Ferry)	34 km
Total Ferry Distance	206.6 km

Our Route at a Glance

Our 3,000-kilometer adventure was a beautiful blend of Mediterranean island hopping and rugged Balkan road tripping, where every stop had its own story.

However, traveling with a 3-month-old baby and chasing the autumn sun meant staying flexible. While we saw so much, there were moments where we had to slow down. Some sights remained “partially explored” as we swapped sightseeing for nap times, or we adjusted it due to unexpected weather shifts. This journey wasn’t about checking every box, it was about finding our rhythm as a new family on the open road.

Below is the full breakdown of our journey. This list serves as a roadmap to the detailed stories of our experience, the adjustments we made along the way, and the hidden gems we discovered:

Part 1: The Croatian Islands (Adriatic Bliss)

• Brač: Zlatni Rat and the heights of Vidova Gora
• Hvar: Beach adventures and Venetian charm
• Korčula: Exploring “Little Dubrovnik” and Lumbarda’s vineyards
• Lastovo: Finding peace on the most remote inhabited island

Part 2: The Balkan Loop (Mountains, Lakes & Culture)

• Albania: Shkodër, the legendary Koman Ferry, and vibrant Tirana
• Kosovo: Wandering the historic streets of Prizren
• North Macedonia: Skopje’s monuments and the magic of Lake Ohrid
• The Finish Line: Durrës, Skadar Lake and Sveti Stefan, Cavtat, and the waterfalls of NP Krka (Skradin)

Brač

Getting to Brač is as easy as it gets. The ferry from Split is a quick 50-minute hop, which is basically just enough time to grab a coffee, catch the sea breeze, and realize you’ve actually started your vacation.

First Impressions: More Than Just Rocks

Brač is an island of contrasts. Yes, it’s famous for its white stone, but it’s surprisingly green, too. Driving across the island is a vibe of its own, there are dense pine forests, endless olive groves, and winding roads where sheep treat the asphalt like their own personal living room. Watching them roam calmly by the road immediately sets that “island time” pace we were looking for.

Bol: The Island’s Heartbeat

Bol is the place everyone knows, tucked right under the massive Vidova Gora mountain. The town center has that classic Dalmatian charm: stone houses, narrow alleys, and cafes where you can just sit and stare at the sea toward Hvar. From the center, there’s a lovely shaded path that leads you all the way to Zlatni Rat. It’s a perfect stroll, even with a stroller.

Crystal Waters & The Ever-Changing Tip

The sea here is so clear it feels like a swimming pool. You don’t even need a mask to see the fish, but if you do put one on, it’s like looking into a private aquarium.

Then there’s Zlatni Rat. It’s massive (around 20,000 square meters of pebbles!), but the coolest part is its “personality”, the tip of the beach actually changes shape depending on how the wind blows and the currents move. It’s naturally formed and totally unique. While it’s a hotspot for surfers, we found it great for families too, thanks to the thick pine forest that offers plenty of natural shade, which is a lifesaver when you have a baby.

Vidova Gora: The Roof of the Adriatic

Rising 778 meters above Bol, Vidova Gora is the highest peak on any Adriatic island. While there’s a hiking trail for the brave from Bol, we took the “parent-friendly” route: a 30 km drive through forests and pastures.

At the top, you’ll find the ruins of St. Vid’s church and a giant cross, but the real prize is the view. You can see Zlatni Rat looking like a tiny toy below, plus Hvar, Pelješac, Korčula, and Vis. We were lucky enough to have a super clear day, so we even caught a glimpse of Monte Gargano in Italy on the horizon. Truly breathtaking.

The “House Inside a House”

One of the quirkiest stories in Bol is the House Inside a House. It’s exactly what it sounds like, a tiny house caught inside the walls of a grand, unfinished palace. Long story short: wealthy brothers tried to build a mansion around a local’s home while he was away, but they never finished it (karma or a shipwreck, you decide). During WWII, it was even used as a stable for horses. Today, you can watch a short film about its history, and instead of a fixed ticket price, you just leave a donation. It’s one of those “only on the islands” kind of stories.

Škrip & The Liquid Gold of Brač

If you want to feel the true, ancient soul of the island, you have to visit Škrip. It is the oldest settlement on Brač, and walking through it feels like stepping back through layers of time, reaching all the way to Illyrian and Roman roots. Local legends even say that the wife and daughter of Emperor Diocletian were buried here.

But for us, the real highlight was the Museum of Olive Oil (Muzej uja).

This isn’t just a museum; it’s a restored oil mill from 1864 that was once the beating heart of the village. The Krstulović family used to turn olives into “liquid gold” right here. We saw the old press that arrived from Trieste at the start of the 20th century (modern tech for its time) which kept the mill running until 1963. Today, the Cukrov family has breathed new life into the space. The moment you step inside, you’re hit with that incredible, rich scent of history and fresh olive oil.

There’s a tasting you shouldn’t skip. The basic entrance fee is €7 (which includes oil and marmalade tastings), but we decided to go for one of the larger platters. It was the best decision! We had local cheeses, olive spreads, anchovies, and prosciutto. It turned into the perfect, slow Mediterranean meal before we headed back to Bol.

As we wandered through Škrip, we couldn’t stop looking at the traditional stone houses. They are famous for their roofs made of flat stone tiles (škrilja). It’s amazing to think that each tile is carved and balanced perfectly without any mortar, held together only by its own weight and the precision of the builder. They used to coat them in lime to keep the houses cool and waterproof, which gives the village its iconic look.

However, we learned a bit of a sad fact: there are only three people left on the entire island who still know how to build these roofs. Two are in their nineties, and one is nearly seventy. While the younger generation still knows how to apply the lime coating, the actual art of laying the stone tiles is slowly disappearing.

Škrip is also home to the Island Museum, set in the impressive 16th-century Radojković Castle. It’s packed with Roman monuments and stories of island life through the ages. We actually had to skip going inside this time, traveling with a 3-month-old means your schedule is never quite your own, and we simply ran out of time. But hey, it gives us a great reason to come back!

Places we did not manage to visit

One thing you learn quickly when traveling with a 3-month-old is that your “to-do” list is more of a “maybe” list. Brač is huge, and while we loved every minute, there were a few iconic spots we had to save for our next visit. If you’re planning a trip, these should definitely be on your radar:

Blaca Hermitage (Pustinja Blaca)

This is probably the island’s most incredible site, a 16th-century monastery literally carved into a cliffside by Glagolitic priests fleeing the Ottomans. It was a hub of culture and science for centuries. However, getting there requires a solid hike on a rocky trail. With a tiny baby, we decided to skip the steep climb this time, but the photos of it look absolutely otherworldly.

Povlja: The Island’s Largest Bay

Over on the northeast coast sits Povlja. It’s a quiet, beautiful village tucked into the biggest bay on the island. It’s famous for its Early Christian basilica ruins and incredibly calm, crystal-clear water. It seems like the perfect spot if you’re looking for a total escape from the crowds.

Pučišća: The Town of Stone

Often called one of the prettiest villages in Europe, Pučišća is tucked deep into a bay and glows with white stone. It’s home to the only stonemasonry school in Croatia. This is where the world-famous Brač stone is shaped, the same stone used for Diocletian’s Palace in Split and even parts of the White House in D.C. We’ll definitely be back to see the students at work.

Supetar

Most people only see Supetar from the ferry deck as they arrive from Split, but it’s a charming town in its own right. It’s the island’s main hub, perfect for a waterfront stroll or a visit to the St. Peter and St. Paul church. It has that classic, easy-going Dalmatian rhythm that’s hard not to love.

Milna

On the western tip lies Milna, nicknamed the “Harbor of a Thousand Sails.” Its deep, sheltered bay has protected ships for centuries. Today, it’s a favorite for sailors and anyone who loves watching boats drift by while sipping a cold drink.

Hvar

Hvar is easily one of the most famous gems in the Adriatic, and honestly, it lives up to the hype. What I love most about it is the balance—you have these lively, buzzing towns on one side, and romantic little fishing villages or quiet, hidden coves on the other. Even as the high season winds down, the island keeps its magic. Here’s a bit of what we experienced:

Stari Grad

The ferry ride from Split to Stari Grad takes about an hour and 50 minutes. Stari Grad is actually the oldest and longest-inhabited town in Croatia, and its stone-cold history earned it a spot as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Walking through the historic center feels like wandering through a storybook. The narrow stone streets and tiny squares are tucked into a deep bay, creating a beautiful contrast between the ancient architecture and the deep blue water. For a bit of peace, we visited Tvrdalj, the Renaissance villa of the poet Petar Hektorović (entry is €5 per person). He built it as a personal retreat, complete with a famous fish pond and a lush garden. It’s a stunning example of how art and nature can live in total harmony.

A short walk outside of town will lead you to some beautiful, secluded beaches. It’s the perfect way to escape the crowds and find a quiet patch of turquoise sea all to yourself.

Hvar Town

Hvar Town is the undisputed center of the island. Even with the season slowly coming to an end, it’s still full of life. There is something special about strolling along the waterfront (riva), listening to the hum of the cafés, and looking up at the Baroque Cathedral of St. Stephen.

A few highlights we loved:

• The Viewpoints: If you walk up toward the historic theater building, you get a fantastic vantage point. From there, you can see the Fortica Fortress (also called Španjola) sitting high above the town, with the cathedral in the foreground. It’s the ultimate postcard shot.
• The Franciscan Monastery: It’s a beautiful, quiet spot that houses the famous Hvar Cross. It’s also where the coastal Way of the Cross begins, following a lovely path along the sea.

A Practical Note on Parking: If you’re driving, Hvar Town can be a bit tricky. We used the main city parking lot, which costs €1.30 per hour. It’s central and much easier than trying to navigate the tiny side streets with a car!

Fortica

High above Hvar Town sits Fortica (or Španjola, as the locals call it). It’s the ultimate “must-see,” and luckily for us, it’s super easy to reach by car with a parking lot right at the entrance. The €10 entry fee might seem a bit steep at first, but honestly, the view from the top is worth every cent. You get this incredible panorama of the terracotta roofs below, the Pakleni Islands scattered in the blue, and Vis and Korčula shimmering in the distance. It’s the perfect spot to just breathe and take it all in.

Pakleni Islands

We couldn’t leave Hvar without a boat trip to the Pakleni Islands. Don’t let the name scare you—it sounds like “Hell Islands” in Croatian, but it actually comes from paklina, a pine resin once used to coat ships.

The tour was €40 per person (or €55 with a lunch we highly recommend, the fish menu was really good). We hit three spots: Marinkovac, Palmižana, and Sveti Klement. Now, a little “real talk” for parents: Palmižana is stunning and famous for a reason, but it was a bit of a challenge with a 3-month-old. The beach is small and quite commercialized, meaning natural shade is a luxury. We managed, but it’s something to keep in mind if you’re traveling with tiny humans. That said, jumping into that turquoise water and cruising under the sun made for memories we’ll keep forever.

Pokonji Dol

Just a short drive from the buzz of Hvar Town is Pokonji Dol. It’s a classic pebble beach with a lighthouse view that looks like a painting. Between the pine trees and the beach bars, it’s one of those places where you plan to stay for an hour and end up staying until sunset.

Vrboska

Vrboska, the “Venice of Hvar”, it’s the smallest town on the island but absolutely packed with charm, thanks to the little stone bridges crossing its canal. We loved the fortress-church of St. Mary, a unique building that served as both a place of prayer and a defense against pirates!

• Pro tip: Park for free near the cemetery; it’s a quick five-minute stroll into the heart of town.

Soline & Jelsa

Near Vrboska is Soline Beach, which is pretty unique because you can swim on “two sides.” One side faces Brač and feels wild and quiet, while the side facing Jelsa is livelier with bars and more “beach day” facilities.

We ended our Hvar exploration in Jelsa. It has such a welcoming, laid-back vibe. The main square is beautiful, but the real magic is in the side streets where you’ll find cozy wine bars. This area is the heart of Hvar’s wine scene (shame we didn’t have time for local varieties like Bogdanuša or Plavac Mali). We used the main town parking here, which was €1.40 per hour, and just spent the afternoon soaking up the slow Dalmatian pace.

Korčula

We reached Korčula via a quick ferry blast from Orebić to the port of Dominče. For our base, we chose the lovely village of Lumbarda. It’s a bit of a hidden gem, famous for being one of the few places in Dalmatia with actual sandy beaches and the home of the unique Grk wine grape. After a quick dip and a stroll through the vineyards, we headed into Korčula Town and it honestly took our breath away.

Exploring Korčula Town

They call it “Little Dubrovnik,” and you can see why the moment you spot the massive stone walls. The streets are laid out in a clever fishbone pattern to let the breeze in but keep the heavy winds out.

Local legend says the famous explorer Marco Polo was born right here. You can visit his supposed birthplace; while the museum itself was closed when we were there, the bell tower and center are open and definitely worth a peek.

• Pro Tip: We parked right by the city walls. It was a bit pricey at €8 for two hours, but for the convenience of being steps away from the gate, it was worth it.

One of the wildest moments of the trip was climbing the bell tower of St. Mark’s Cathedral. I’ll be honest—it was an adrenaline rush! The first set of stairs is a tight spiral, but the second set is even narrower and steeper, feeling very “open” to the elements. Navigating the tiny walkway at the top with a baby in a carrier was… interesting, to say the least. But that view? A total 360-degree panorama of the old town and the sea. My knees were definitely shaking on the way down, and I didn’t stop feeling the butterflies until my feet hit the ground!

Island Hopping

The archipelago around Korčula is stunning and super easy to navigate thanks to the taxi boats. We grabbed a “hop-on, hop-off” ticket for €20 that loops between Lumbarda, Vrnik, Badija, and Korčula Town.

Badija: Famous for its 15th-century monastery and the fallow deer that roam free. They’re incredibly tame and used to people, though signs (rightfully) ask you not to feed them. A word of caution: Swimming here can be tricky. The shore is rocky and very slippery, and the sea urchins move in early, even in the shallows!

Vrnik: A tiny, peaceful island known for its ancient stone quarry. Stone from here was used to build palaces all across Dalmatia. It’s the perfect place for a quiet walk if you want to escape the world for an hour.

Pupnatska Luka & Vela Luka

If you’re looking for that “postcard” beach, Pupnatska Luka is it. It’s about 15km from town, tucked away at the bottom of a winding road through vineyards. The water is that perfect turquoise, and the pine trees provide great natural shade. It felt much more intimate and wild than the town beaches.

We ended our Korčula stay in Vela Luka on the western side of the island. It’s a classic Mediterranean port town with a deep bay and great food. We had a nice meal at Skalinada, homemade pasta with meat and a monkfish dish that was to die for. It’s also where you catch the ferry to Lastovo. We missed out on the famous Vela Spilja cave this time, but as always, we’re leaving something for the next trip!

Lastovo

Lastovo is a place that feels like a well-kept secret. It’s tucked away in the far south of the Adriatic, with barely 500 residents living across tiny villages. Even though it’s small, the island hits you with this incredible sense of untouched nature and a kind of quiet you just don’t find anymore.

Educational Trip

One of the highlights of our stay was the Educational Trip organized directly by the Nature Park. The park’s boat picked us up near our accommodation, and we set off on a full loop around the island. It was the perfect way to see Lastovo from the sea while learning about the delicate balance between the local community and the protected environment.

The entire archipelago is a Nature Park, but it doesn’t feel like a restricted zone. Life here is a perfect balance between people and the environment. Because the locals actually live within the park boundaries, they’ve mastered the art of farming and taking care of the land while keeping the ecosystem thriving.

A few cool things we learned:

• The Falcons: Lastovo is a massive nesting site. There’s one brave pair of falcons on the main island, but if you head to nearby Sušac, there are about 20 of them!
• Secret Nests: On the islet across from Zaklopatica, there are over 200 bird nests hidden deep inside the rocks.
• Conservation: The park rangers are doing some great work, like managing the rat population to protect rare birds and installing buoys to save the Posidonia seagrass from anchors.
• The Sun: They say Lastovo is one of the sunniest spots in Croatia. Some locals swear it even beats Hvar for total sunshine hours.

We stopped at Saplun Beach, and honestly, swimming there was pure magic. There’s a tiny islet just across the water that you can swim to in minutes. If you’re into snorkeling, this is your spot. The seabed is teeming with fish, and if you keep your eyes peeled, you might even spot an octopus hiding in the rocks.

While wandering around, we also stumbled upon old military bunkers. Some of them still have remnants of old equipment inside.

Jurjev Vrh: The 25-Minute View

For one of the best views on the island, we headed up to Jurjev Vrh. It’s only about 100 meters above sea level, so the hike is super easy and well-marked. It starts at Jurjeva Luka beach and takes maybe 25 minutes to reach the top.

Along the way, we saw dozens of little lizards sunning themselves on the rocks. Once you reach the summit, the view opens up completely. On one side, you see the massive Biokovo mountain on the mainland, and on clear days, you can even spot the Italian coast on the horizon.

Diving center “Ronilački Raj”

Of course, we couldn’t leave Lastovo without diving, so we each took a turn. Tin went out with the diving center one day, and I went the next. Why didn’t we go together? Well, Antun still hasn’t mastered his scuba skills yet, and at three months old, he wasn’t quite ready to wait for us on the shore by himself! So, we played a game of ‘tag-team parenting’ to make sure we both got to see the underwater magic while someone stayed on baby duty.

If you dive, Lastovo is paradise. We dived with the diving center “Ronilački Raj” (which literally means Diving Heaven), and the name fits. The instructors were fantastic and the dives were so well-organized. The underwater world here is bursting with life: colorful nudibranchs, fish, sponges, and plenty of moray eels.

Lastovo isn’t just another island on a map; it’s a full-sensory experience of peace and nature. It’s the kind of place that stays in your mind long after the ferry pulls away.

Our Balkan road trip officially kicked off as we left the Croatian coast behind, with Albania as our first big destination. This meant tackling the Croatian and Montenegrin borders, always a bit of an adventure, but especially when you’re traveling with a three-month-old. We were constantly eyeing the clock, trying to time our breaks with Antun’s naps, and honestly, we weren’t sure how he’d handle the long wait. To our surprise, he was a total champ. There was a little crying here and there, but nothing a bit of soothing couldn’t fix.

Border crossings are the most unpredictable part of any road trip. You just have to embrace the wait. It took us about 25 minutes to clear the Croatian side, where the officers were quick and efficient. About half an hour later, we hit the Montenegrin border. They didn’t even ask to see the car or ask us any questions, they just waved us through.

The drive through Montenegro was surprisingly smooth. To save some time, we hopped on the Kamenari to Lepetane ferry. It’s a bargain at €5 for the car (passengers ride for free!), and the 10-minute crossing was just enough time to hop out, stretch our legs, and catch a quick sea breeze before getting back behind the wheel. We followed the coast toward Bar before cutting inland toward Albania.

As we hit the Albanian border, Antun started to get a bit restless, and who could blame him? Luckily, the queue moved faster than we feared. Shkodër is just a short drive from the border, and before we knew it, we were pulling up to our hotel.

The math of the day? We left Lastovo at 4:00 AM and finally rolled into Shkodër at 4:00 PM. Twelve hours on the road is a lot for anyone, let alone a tiny human, but we made it. We were exhausted, happy, and ready for a very well-deserved rest.

Shkodër

Shkodër is one of those places we are so genuinely glad we didn’t skip. Tucked away in northern Albania, right between Lake Shkodër and the Bojana River, it has this cool, layered atmosphere where old-school tradition meets a very lively modern energy.

The city center hits you with instant charm. The streets are buzzing, the vibe is cheerful, and there is a café or restaurant on basically every corner. Honestly, it’s impossible to go hungry or thirsty here! What really struck us was the cultural mix. Seeing mosques and Christian churches standing almost side-by-side gives Shkodër a unique, peaceful character.

We noticed some quirky details that made the city feel “alive.” There are plenty of street dogs in the center, but they’re surprisingly calm and all have little ID tags. And if you look up, the trees are often filled with flocks of starlings putting on a loud, musical show.

Money & Practicalities

• Cash is King: While you can use a card in bigger restaurants, our hotel gave us a heads-up to carry Albanian Lek for the smaller spots.
• Exchange: If you need to swap currency, there are several handy exchange offices right behind the main mosque in the center.
• Pit Stop: If you’re out exploring all day (especially with a baby!), there’s a reliable public restroom right next to the cathedral.

We have to give a huge shout-out to Hotel Dirista. The rooms were spacious, but the real highlight was the staff. They were incredibly friendly, spoke perfect English, and went out of their way to give us detailed tips on navigating the city. If you’re visiting, we highly recommend them!

Shkodër is often called the “Amsterdam of Albania” because everyone, from kids to grandparents, is on a bicycle. It’s the heart and soul of how people get around here.

On the flip side, the traffic can be… adventurous. Some drivers seem to treat road rules as “suggestions,” so definitely stay alert! As you move away from the polished center, the city shows more contrast, tangled hanging cables and a mix of beautifully renovated homes sitting right next to weathered buildings. But honestly? That’s exactly what gives Shkodër its raw, authentic soul.

While wandering, we came across a statue of Mother Teresa. Even though she was born in Skopje, her roots and identity are deeply tied to the Albanian people. Shkodër, being the heart of Albania’s Catholic community, feels like the natural place to honor her. For locals, she’s more than a saint; she’s a symbol of the compassion and simplicity that you can still feel in the hospitality here.

Rozafa Fortress

If you’re in Shkodër, you absolutely cannot miss Rozafa Fortress. It sits high on a rocky hill, and the climb is worth it for the views alone. From the top, you get this massive, 360-degree panorama of the surrounding mountains, the winding Drin River, and the vast Lake Shkodër. It’s breathtaking.

The Essentials:

• Cost: Entrance is usually around 400 Lek (roughly €4), and you can find parking nearby for about €1 or €2.
• The Vibe: Even though it’s a popular spot, the fortress is huge. You can always find a quiet corner away from the crowds to just sit, catch your breath, and soak in the scenery.

The Haunting Legend of Rozafa

Beyond the views, what makes this place truly special is the legend behind its name. As the story goes, three brothers were trying to build the fortress, but they ran into a bizarre problem: everything they built during the day would mysteriously collapse at night.

To break the “curse” and finish the walls, they were told a sacrifice was needed: one of their wives had to be walled inside the structure. The brothers agreed that whichever wife brought them food the next day would be the one. That woman was Rozafa, the wife of the youngest brother.

Before she was sacrificed, Rozafa made one heartbreaking request. She asked to be left with one eye, one hand, and one breast uncovered so she could still see her infant son, touch him, and nurse him. Today, her story is a powerful symbol of devotion and the eternal bond between the city and its fortress. Walking through the ruins, you can almost feel the weight of that history in the stones.

The drive from Shkodër to Koman

The drive from Shkodër to Koman was a proper little adventure. It definitely took us longer than we’d planned, mostly because the road has… let’s just say, a “unique” character. At first, the potholes didn’t bother us at all; we were in a relaxed headspace, and the scenery was so stunning that the bumps were just part of the rhythm.

Things got a bit more “interesting” during the last eight kilometers. The road was almost entirely under construction, which made for some slow going. But honestly? Knowing we wouldn’t have to drive back the same way made the whole experience feel much more special and less stressful. We just took our time and rolled with it.

What made the drive truly unforgettable was the view that followed us almost the entire way. The Drin River winds through the mountains in these impossible shades of turquoise and deep emerald. Every single curve in the road revealed another canyon or a hidden lake that looked like a postcard. We were so busy staring out the window that we almost forgot how long we’d been in the car.

If you’re planning this route, be prepared, the road can be tiring and your suspension will definitely get a workout! But between the mountain views along the way and the reward waiting at the end, it’s worth every single minute. Reaching Koman is really just the warm-up for one of Albania’s greatest hits: the boat trip through the Koman Fjord, often called the “Norway of the Balkans.”

Koman and Ferry to Fierze

If your travels ever lead you to northern Albania, you absolutely cannot skip Koman. At first glance, it might look like just a tiny spot by a lake, but it has this incredible, hidden atmosphere that sticks with you long after you leave.

Before you even think about boarding the ferry, do yourself a favor and stop at the little restaurant right by the bridge. It’s a simple, no-frills place, but the food is fantastic. We ordered kebabs and sausages with fries and salad, and I’m not exaggerating when I say they were some of the best kebabs I’ve ever had. Plus, they accept Euros, which is a lifesaver for travelers just passing through.

To get to the ferry terminal, you have to drive through a long, narrow tunnel literally carved into the solid rock. Driving through that darkness felt like we were entering some kind of secret underground base! When we finally popped out the other side, the lake appeared, along with a scene of pure, glorious “organized chaos.”

There were cars, workers, and passengers everywhere, all squeezed into this tiny docking area. It sounds stressful, but it was actually fascinating to watch. The workers are like Tetris masters; they manage to fit every single vehicle and person into that small space with total confidence.

The ferry ride from Koman is often called the most beautiful in Europe, and honestly? The title is well-deserved. For over two and a half hours, you’re surrounded by massive, jagged cliffs and narrow gorges that look like something out of a fantasy novel. Every turn reveals a view more breathtaking than the last.

What looks like a natural paradise today actually has a very industrial past. Lake Koman and that “secret” tunnel were built in the 1980s during Albania’s communist era as part of a massive hydroelectric project. The tunnel was originally just an access point for the dam, but today it’s the gateway to one of the most stunning boat trips you’ll ever take.

The whole experience, from the dark tunnel to the emerald water, feels like stepping into another world. It’s raw, it’s simple, and it’s undeniably beautiful.

Albania – Kosovo border

Our journey continued from the ferry port near Fierze as we headed toward the Kosovo border. What happened there turned into one of those “only while traveling” stories that we’ll probably be telling for years.

As we handed over our documents, we realized our international car insurance didn’t cover Kosovo. No big deal, we thought, we’ll just buy the local insurance at the border. There was just one tiny problem: the officer in charge of the insurance wasn’t in his office. He had gone to lunch at a nearby restaurant.

Luckily, one of the police officers spoke Serbian, so we could easily understand each other. He was incredibly kind and told us he’d called the insurance guy to let him know a family with a baby was waiting. Then he just laughed and gave us the real talk: “It’ll probably be at least half an hour… the man isn’t going to rush his meal!”

He was 100% right. We ended up waiting about thirty minutes, but honestly? It wasn’t annoying at all. We used the time to stretch our legs, soak in the mountain scenery around the crossing, and chat with the friendly policeman. It turned into one of those unexpected, peaceful pauses that make a road trip feel like a real adventure rather than just a drive.

When the insurance officer finally returned, he was incredibly apologetic. He didn’t speak English, but he asked if anyone knew German. Tin stepped in, they chatted away in German, and everything was sorted in minutes. To our total surprise, he insisted the insurance was free, a small “thank you” for our patience, even though it usually costs €13.

What could have been an irritating delay ended up being one of our favorite memories. It was a gentle reminder that sometimes the best parts of a journey are the ones you never saw coming.

Prizren

Prizren was a total highlight of the trip. In so many ways, it reminded us of Sarajevo, there’s that same soulful atmosphere, beautiful architecture, and a real melting pot of cultures. The streets are buzzing with life, and you’ll definitely spot a few stray dogs wandering around, which honestly just adds to that familiar Balkan charm we’ve grown to love.

The Spirit of Prizren

What makes Prizren feel so special is its multicultural heart. Walking through the center, you’re hit with a mix of different languages and the incredible scent of local food. There’s a river running right through the city, crossed by these picturesque little stone bridges that give the whole place a really warm, inviting feel.

A few things we noticed:

• The Flags: One thing you can’t miss is that Albanian flags are absolutely everywhere. Interestingly, you rarely see the official Kosovo flag, which tells you a lot about the local identity and how the people here feel connected to their roots.
• The Language: Communication was a bit of a mixed bag! Some people chatted with us in English, while others heard us speaking Croatian and immediately switched to Serbian. Still, many locals only speak Albanian, so English is usually your safest bet for getting around.

Views and Local Eats

You can’t visit Prizren without heading up to the Kalaja Fortress. It’s about a 15-minute hike up a pretty steep path from the center (no cars allowed here!), but it’s totally free and open all the time. Trust me, the sweat is worth it, from the top, you get this massive panoramic view of the whole city and the surrounding hills.

For dinner, we stumbled upon a gem called Hani i Vjeter. It’s traditionally decorated and serves up some seriously delicious homemade dishes. The staff was so welcoming, and it felt like a truly authentic slice of local hospitality.

A Home Away from Home

Our accommodation, Ron’s House (found on Booking), was such a pleasant surprise. The apartment was huge and, lifesaver alert, it had both a washing machine and a dryer! Having a 3-month-old meant we had quite the laundry mountain, so this was a dream come true.

The hosts were incredibly kind. They actually run an English language school, so communication is a breeze for anyone, though for us it was even easier since they spoke Serbian too. It really made us feel completely at home.

North Macedonia

Entering North Macedonia was the easiest border crossing of our entire trip. There was no one around, and we simply drove through without stopping.

Skopje

The main square of this city is honestly a bit surreal. It’s packed with these giant sculptures that definitely spark curiosity, but you can’t help but ask: did they really need to be that big? Walking across the historic Stone Bridge feels like being in an open-air gallery, with every bridge having its own unique (and very grand) design. It’s a bit “much,” but it’s part of Skopje’s undeniable energy.

Where to Eat & What to See:

• The Old Bazaar: After the grandiosity of the square, the Old Bazaar is a breath of fresh air. It’s full of cozy cafés and that classic “old world” soul.

• Stara Gradska Kuća (Old City House): We loved this spot. It’s warm, authentic, and the traditional food made us feel right at home.

• Memorial House of Mother Teresa: This was a beautiful, quiet contrast to the rest of the city. If you’re there on a Tuesday, they even hold a small mass in the chapel.

• The Fortress: A great, quiet spot for a walk along the walls with a view over the city.

Our second day was supposed to be all about nature: the cable car to the Millennium Cross on Mount Vodno, the 12th-century frescoes at St. Panteleimon, and a boat trip through the stunning Matka Canyon.

But the rain had other ideas. It poured. Instead of hiking, we embraced the “slow travel” life. We hit the local Green Market near our apartment, grabbed some fresh burek, yogurt, and the best local tomatoes, and had ourselves a little feast indoors. It wasn’t the adventure we planned, but it was a cozy, intimate side of Skopje we actually really enjoyed.

Skopje to Ohrid

On our last morning, we thought about hitting the Zoo (only about €2!), but then we saw it: snow-covered peaks. Winter had arrived overnight. We packed up and headed toward Ohrid, and that’s when the real drive began.

The highway tolls are a bit of a quirk: about 30-40 denars each. Pro tip: pay in denars if you can! A 40 denar toll is less than a euro, but they’ll charge you a full €1 if you don’t have local change.

Crossing the mountains was like driving into a Narnia movie. Everything was white, but because it was so early in the season, the trees were still full of green leaves. The heavy snow was bending the branches right down over the road! We ended up “following” a tall truck that acted like our personal snowplow, clearing a path through the low-hanging canopy. It was 20 kilometers of pure, unexpected winter magic before we descended back into the golden colors of autumn.

Ohrid

Ohrid is one of those places that knows how to make an entrance. When we first arrived, the sky was a heavy, moody grey, and I’ll be honest, I didn’t quite get the “magic” everyone had promised. But then, the next morning happened. The sun broke through, the lake started to sparkle like a diamond, and suddenly, I was sold.

We spent our first day just finding our rhythm. Ohrid is a maze of narrow stone streets, wooden boardwalks hugging the cliffs, and a massive fortress keeping watch from the hill. We grabbed lunch at a spot called Antico, the atmosphere was lovely, though the food was just “okay.”

It was a bit chilly, and since little Antun was getting a little restless (traveling with a 3-month-old means he calls the shots!), we decided to call it an early spectacular and retreated to the warmth of our apartment to recharge for the big boat trip the next day.

Boat Trip: The Lake, the Bones, and the Monastery

The next morning was the highlight. I found a boat tour on Viator for €20 per person that left from the main port at 10:15. Cruising across the calm water with snow-capped mountains in the distance was pure bliss.

Our first stop: The Bay of Bones (€2.50 / 150 MKD entry) This place is incredible. It’s a faithful reconstruction of a prehistoric settlement built on wooden platforms right over the water. It looks like something out of a movie. We had about 25 minutes to explore the little huts, which was just enough time to get a feel for how people lived back in the Bronze Age.

Next stop: St. Naum Monastery When we pulled up to St. Naum, we were floored. We had three hours of free time, and I originally thought, “What are we going to do for three hours?” Well, as it turns out, it wasn’t nearly enough!

• The Springs: We spent 30 minutes walking through the forest surrounding the springs. The water is so crystal-clear you literally can’t tell where the ground ends and the lake begins.

• Lunch with a View: While most people flocked to the island restaurant, we picked a quieter spot by the road with a sunny terrace right on the water. Sitting there in the sun was the peak of the trip.

• The Monastery: The climb up to the monastery itself is beautiful. The courtyard is peaceful, the old church is stunning, and the view over the lake is just… wow.

One thing that tugged at our heartstrings was the number of stray dogs and puppies in pretty rough shape. We happened to have a hot dog with us (don’t judge!) and shared it with them. Later, back in town, we saw a donation box in a supermarket for a local sterilization program. It’s a sad reality in the Balkans, but it was heartening to see the community trying to help.

As we sailed back into Ohrid, the clouds started rolling back in. We truly caught the only window of perfect sunshine for our tour, and it made all the difference. Ohrid really is a magical place, the kind of spot you need to experience at least once in your life.

From Ohrid to Tirana

Before hitting the road for Albania, we managed one last quick stop at Ohrid Castle. The fortress itself is impressive, but it’s the view over the lake that really steals the show. We didn’t linger too long, though as Antun was hitting that “I need a nap right now” phase, so we did a bit of a speed-run through the walls.

• Quick Tip: Entry is 150 MKD (about €2.50) per person. Definitely worth it for the photos alone!

The drive from Ohrid to Tirana usually takes about two and a half hours, but the border is always the wildcard. On the Macedonian side, we practically flew through, hardly any control at all. But as soon as we hit the Albanian side, everything ground to a halt.

The officers were incredibly thorough, entering every passenger’s data manually and double-checking car papers for every single vehicle. It felt like a lifetime per car. Luckily, Antun decided to time a mini-meltdown perfectly, the moment he started crying, the officers suddenly lost interest in our paperwork, scanned our IDs, and waved us through with a “just go” look. Perks of traveling with a baby, I guess!

Tirana Traffic

The road into Tirana is actually in decent shape, but once you hit the city limits, throw the rulebook out the window. Traffic in Tirana is pure, unadulterated chaos. Rules? They seem to be once again more like “gentle suggestions” for those who feel like following them. Everyone honks, constantly. If there’s an intersection without a working traffic light, it’s basically a game of “Bumper Car Chicken.” Everyone just sticks their nose in at the same time, and whoever is the bravest (or most aggressive) gets to go first. We spent most of the drive just wondering: Where are all these people going? And why does every single person in this city need to be in a car at the exact same time?

It was exhausting, loud, and slightly terrifying, but hey, it’s all part of the Tirana experience!

Tirana

Tirana is… a lot. It’s a city that greets you with pure, unscripted chaos, and honestly, it’s not for the faint of heart. It’s gritty, the streets are often quite dirty, and the driving? Well, let’s just say that “lanes” are more of a suggestion than a rule.

Navigating the side streets is a sport in itself. They are so incredibly narrow you’ll find yourself holding your breath as you squeeze past parked cars, praying you don’t lose a side mirror. Drivers here have a level of “aggressive patience”, lots of honking and pushing, but somehow it all moves. And the pedestrians? They just walk right into the road as if sidewalks are a myth. If there’s construction, there are no signs or detours; you just figure it out on the fly.

Language Barrier: We struggled a bit with English here. From our waitress to the delivery guy and even our Airbnb host, almost no one spoke more than a few words. Google Translate was our absolute MVP for this part of the trip.

The Bunkers

You can’t visit Tirana without exploring the bunkers. We hit both Bunk’Art 1 and Bunk’Art 2.

• Bunk’Art 1: This was the winner for us. It’s a massive atomic shelter tucked away on the outskirts, and the atmosphere in those long, cold underground corridors is heavy with history.

• Bunk’Art 2: Right in the city center. It’s smaller and focuses on the secret police and the darker side of the communist regime. It’s interesting, but Bunk’Art 1 felt much more immersive and “raw.”

We took the Dajti Express cable car up the mountain, which was a total highlight. The climb is steep, but the view from the top is incredible—you can see the entire city sprawling below.

Back in town, we checked out the Tirana Castle (Fortress). To be honest, it was a bit of a letdown. Instead of historical ruins, it’s essentially a fancy food court filled with cafés and souvenir shops. It’s lost that “authentic” soul. The city itself doesn’t really have a cozy, walkable center either; the main square is impressive, but it’s surrounded by a whirlwind of traffic.

We also climbed the famous Pyramid, all 116 steps of it! The view isn’t life-changing, but the building itself is a cool symbol of how Tirana is transforming. Once a monument to a dictator, it’s now a creative hub for young people.

To escape the noise, we headed to the big city park around the artificial lake. It was a pleasant surprise: green, clean, and clearly the place where locals go to catch their breath. However, the lake itself felt a bit “artificial” and a little neglected. As soon as we got close to the water, the wind picked up like crazy, making it less of a “relaxing stroll” and more of a “hold onto the baby” situation.

Still, it was an interesting way to end our time in Tirana. It’s a city that’s clearly obsessed with building and renovating modern, colorful architecture is popping up everywhere. It’s loud, it’s messy, but it’s definitely got an energy you won’t find anywhere else.

Durrës

Durrës is one of the oldest cities in Albania and was once a massive Roman port. You can still see the bones of the ancient empire in the huge amphitheater and the old city walls. Looming over it all on a nearby hill is the former villa of King Zog I, a grand, slightly eerie reminder of Albania’s royal past.

I’ll be honest: my impressions of Durrës were a bit of a mixed bag.

On one hand, the seaside promenade is lovely, it’s long, well-kept, and buzzing with life. It’s the kind of place where you can just wander, grab a coffee, and people-watch for hours. But on the other hand, the sea itself was a bit of a letdown. The water near the shore looked cloudy and, frankly, a bit dirty. At one point along the promenade, we even spotted a drainage pipe flowing directly into the sea, which definitely killed the “beach holiday” vibe.

Aside from the Roman ruins and a few quirky sculptures (like the one dedicated to famous singers), there isn’t a huge list of “sights” to tick off. What you will see, though, are the dogs. They are everywhere! But surprisingly, they’re some of the chillest stray dogs I’ve ever met, friendly, calm, and totally unfazed by people. Seeing them napping in little groups on the sand made them feel like just another part of the local community.

If I’m being completely real, I wouldn’t recommend staying in Durrës for more than a day. We stayed for two nights, which worked for us because we desperately needed to just “switch off,” catch up on sleep, and recharge our batteries after so much driving. It served its purpose as a rest stop, but it lacks that sparkling, relaxed atmosphere you usually expect from the Adriatic.

I’d definitely push further south. Every local and travel blog says the same thing: the further south you go, the clearer the water gets and the more beautiful the beaches become. Durrës was an interesting pulse-check on the Albanian coast, but I think the true seaside magic is waiting further down the shore. We’ll save that for the next trip!

From Albanian to Montenegro

The journey back toward Montenegro was surprisingly smooth. We’ve learned by now that Balkan borders are a total wildcard, but this time, the travel luck was on our side. Even though the officers were meticulously logging every truck and car, there were zero lines. We cleared both sides in about fifteen minutes.

The officers were actually lovely, they asked where we’d been and if we’d enjoyed the trip. It was such a friendly, human touch to say goodbye to Albania with a smile and a “mission accomplished” feeling.

Lake Skadar

We pulled into Virpazar, which is the go-to base for exploring Lake Skadar National Park. We booked a two-hour boat tour through the GetYourGuide app with an operator called Kingfisher (€20 per person), and it was easily one of the highlights of our entire month.

Our guide, Aleks, and our captain, Slobo, were a dream team. Aleks was hilarious and kept us entertained with stories, while they served us local wine and juice, a small detail that made the whole thing feel so much more special.

We cruised through narrow canals and out into the vast, open lake with the Albanian mountains looming in the distance. The birdwatching was incredible: we saw grebes, herons, and, fittingly, a kingfisher! But the real stars were the two pelicans we spotted floating calmly on the water.

We did have a bit of a laugh at another boat’s expense. They tried to get way too close to the pelicans for a photo and ended up running aground! The same lake rangers who had checked our permits earlier had to swoop in and rescue them. From the look on the rangers’ faces, those tourists definitely got a “gentle” lecture along with their tow.

One of the most magical moments was drifting through a section of the lake completely blanketed in water lilies. Since they hadn’t withered yet, the whole area looked like a painting. It’s the kind of scenery that makes you put your phone down and just breathe (after taking a hundred photos, of course).

Before the tour, we hit the meeting place for lunch. It is packed with restaurants along the shore, and honestly, you can’t really go wrong. The prices are pretty standard for Europe, but the portions are huge and the fish is as fresh as it gets.

We spent our final night in Sveti Stefan, staring at that famous tiny island resort and soaking in the last bit of the Adriatic salt air.

From Montenegro to Croatia

Friday at noon usually spells “traffic nightmare,” so we were bracing ourselves for the worst at the Croatian border. To our total shock, we sailed through in minutes.

On the flip side, the line heading into Montenegro was miles long. We still have no idea why everyone was rushing into Montenegro on a Friday afternoon, but we were just incredibly grateful to be on the “fast” side of the road for once.

The Grand Finale: Cavtat, Island Hopping, and NP Krka

We wrapped up our month-long adventure by heading back toward the Croatian coast, starting with Cavtat. Honestly, I was blown away. It has all that Mediterranean charm you expect from Dubrovnik, but without the suffocating crowds and the “tourist trap” prices.

Cavtat Highlights:

• The Food: We took a local recommendation and went to Restaurant Ivan. For €60, we both had a full three-course meal with drinks—which is a steal for this part of the coast!

• The View from Above: We hiked up to the hilltop cemetery and mausoleum. It sounds a bit macabre, but it’s actually incredibly peaceful and offers this dignified, panoramic view of the sea with Dubrovnik shimmering in the distance.

• The Peninsula Path: There’s a lovely walking trail that circles the whole peninsula. I even managed to squeeze in a quick swim at a tiny beach right by the cemetery steps, the weather was just too good to pass up.

Pro-tip for Dubrovnik: If you’re staying in Cavtat, just take the bus or boat into Dubrovnik. Driving into the Old Town is impossible, and the nearest garage is a whopping €7 per hour!

The Elaphiti Islands: One Last Swim

I found an island-hopping tour on GetYourGuide covering Lopud, Šipan, and Koločep. In the off-season, the boat was only €10 per person (plus €20 for lunch), which felt like the bargain of the century.

• Lopud: It was a bit too windy for a swim, so we grabbed coffees and hiked up to the fortress. It was a 20-minute climb to the top, but looking down at the red-tiled roofs and the endless blue sea made every step worth it. We also took a stroll through the lush botanical garden and followed the path all the way to the Lopud Pavilion. It’s a hidden gem on the island where you can just sit, breathe, and soak in the breathtaking views of the open sea.

• Šipan: This was where we had our “last swim of the year.” The water was bracingly cold but crystal clear. Tin and I dove in while we just dipped Antun’s feet, he thought it was the funniest thing in the world! I went snorkeling and found a massive yellow snail, though the octopuses were clearly hiding from me that day.

• Koločep: We stumbled upon an old cemetery here with tombstones over 150 years old. The inscriptions were so different from what we’re used to back home in Varaždin; it was a really hauntingly beautiful place to end the day.

We ended the boat trip with 20,000 steps on our pedometers and very happy hearts. (Parking note: We used a lot near the meeting point in Dubrovnik, €24 for the whole day.)

Final Stop: Skradin & Krka Waterfalls

To officially end the trip, we traded the salt water for the fresh currents of Krka National Park. We started in Skradin, which is such a gem of a town. Before hopping on the boat to the waterfalls, we had to try the famous Skradin Risotto at Taverna Dalmatino—it’s legendary for a reason!

The 20-minute boat ride from Skradin drops you right at the base of Skradinski Buk. Standing in front of that massive wall of water was the perfect “reset” button. We spent about an hour wandering the wooden boardwalks through the forest, listening to the roar of the falls.

Back in Skradin, we sat by the dock, watched the ducks and swans, and shared a slice of Skradin cake as the sun began to set. It was the perfect, quiet moment to reflect on our first big journey as a family of three.

Final Thoughts: 30 Days, 4 Countries, and 1 Very Amazing Baby

Looking back at our map, it’s hard to believe how much ground we covered. We survived the “organized chaos” of Tirana’s traffic, shared our lunch with stray puppies in Ohrid, climbed ancient fortresses, and navigated snowy mountain passes when we were expecting autumn leaves.

People told us we were crazy for taking a three-month-old on a month-long Balkan road trip. And honestly? Maybe we were! There were moments of “tag-team parenting” at diving centers, a few border-control meltdowns (mostly from Antun, but occasionally from us), and more laundry than I ever care to see again.

But for every diaper changed in a parking lot, there was a sunset over Sveti Stefan, a perfect plate of Skradin risotto, or a quiet walk through a historic island cemetery. We learned that travel with a baby isn’t about ticking every sight off a list, it’s about slowing down, finding the “hidden gems” in the rain, and realizing that a smile from a local border guard can turn a delay into a memory.

Antun might not remember his first “big adventure” with his ID card in hand, but we’ll certainly remember it for him. He was a little champ through every kilometer, and as for us? We’re already looking at the map for the next one. We’ve caught the travel bug all over again, and we can’t wait to see where the road takes our little family next.