La Fortuna: 4 days (Costa Rica 3 weeks itinerary)

7.4., Sunday, Day 1

Around 6:30 AM, we both woke up and started packing, and by 7:00 AM, we were already having breakfast in our hotel, San Jose. Once we finished our meal, we returned to our room to ensure we had packed everything before heading to check out.

After dropping off our room key, we stepped outside to find the taxi driver waiting for us in front of the hotel. She had a small car, so the suitcase was placed behind her seat, Tin sat in the back, and I sat up front with her. Since she didn’t speak English, most of our conversation was in Spanish. While she was a kind and caring woman, her driving was occasionally reckless. There were a few instances where she veered slightly over the line, but one incident was particularly concerning. The heavy rain made visibility poor, and the road was filled with water. As we descended downhill, the car skidded slightly off the road. Thankfully, she managed to regain control and get us back on track. Although she apologized, our hearts continued to race for a while. Despite my reassurances, I was quite scared. She drove more cautiously for the rest of the journey.

It took us about 3 hours to reach our destination. Since we arrived earlier than the check-in time, we left our luggage at the hotel reception and went to a nearby restaurant for a meal.

We ordered lemonade, pineapple juice, a typical breakfast, and a fruit plate, all of which were delicious. We spent about 2 hours at the restaurant until it was time for check-in.

We settled into our pretty small room and took a short break. At 2:50 PM, our transportation arrived for the Coffee and Chocolate Tour. It was a quick 5-minute drive to the plantation, where about 15 of us were led by Alberto, a charming guide who made the tour both entertaining and educational. He shared fascinating stories and insights into the coffee and chocolate-making process.

Facts

• Coffee originated in Ethiopia and was introduced to Europe, but it didn’t thrive there. That’s why Europeans began cultivating it in their Latin American colonies.
• Costa Rica consists of 8 distinct regions for coffee production.
• Coffee quality is evaluated based on 10 factors, with the coffee we tried scoring an impressive 86 out of 100.
• While coffee used to be a dominant economic force in Costa Rica, it now represents only 1% of the economy. Historically, coffee profits even contributed to San Jose becoming the third city to have electricity.
• The coffee berry ripening season spans from November to January, aligning with traditional school holidays. In the past, children would assist with berry picking during this time, and they were excused from school for plantation work. Although this practice has faded, children still have holidays during the ripening season.
• Sustainable practices are employed in cultivation and production, with workers from Panama and Nicaragua hired for harvesting due to the shortage of local farmers. Harvesters are fairly compensated based on the number of baskets they fill.
• To deceive the squirrels, which damage plantations by consuming cocoa fruits, farmers have introduced alternative fruits that squirrels also like, thus minimizing damage and improving overall yields.

8.4., Monday, Day 2

At 7:00, we were picked up from the hotel for a full day of hiking and activities. We started getting ready and packing around 6:20. Despite dressing in shorts, we also brought along rain jackets as it was raining heavily outside. Fortunately, they proved useful; they kept us dry for the first hour, but eventually, they got soaked, and we ended up wet. We also packed towels and swimsuits for swimming under the waterfall and in the hot springs.

Once ready, we had the breakfast prepared by the hotel from the previous day. Although breakfast was included, our pick-up was scheduled before breakfast service began. Hence, we got a snack bag instead, which consisted of crackers, bananas, and a small juice. It wasn’t much, but it was enough.

Given the rainy weather, we were a bit worried about how the day would unfold, but it turned out to be quite enjoyable. Yulian served as our guide, and along with the driver, they picked us up. We were the first ones in the van, and as we proceeded, we picked up the rest of the group.

Our first destination was Mistico Park, famous for its hanging bridges. We walked through the forest for nearly two hours, covering a total distance of 3km, but at a slow pace with frequent breaks. Because of the downpour, our wildlife sightings were limited, but we managed to spot some animals such as lizards, spiders, a viper snake, monkeys, red frogs, and a few bird species. Yulian’s good knowledge about the natural world made the experience highly engaging. Walking across the hanging bridges was particularly fascinating, but slightly dizzying due to their swaying motion and the sheer height.

Yulian also added a touch of humor to the excursion; one memorable joke was when he pointed out a couple of animals upon exiting the park, claiming they were all females because they winked at him as they passed by.

After leaving Mistico Park, we proceeded to El Silencio Park with the goal of getting as close to the volcano as possible. Before beginning our ascent, Yulian treated us to some refreshing pineapple slices as a snack. They were so tasty that both Tin and I got more than one piece.

Unfortunately, the volcano was hidden behind clouds due to the bad weather, so we missed seeing it. Nonetheless, the trail remained enjoyable, offering us splendid views along the way. Upon our descent, Yulian shared some interesting facts about the volcanoes in Costa Rica. For example, the volcano we were near first erupted in 1968 and last erupted in 2010. Tragically, some villages were completely destroyed and buried under cooled lava flows during the initial eruption, also resulting in casualties. Currently, there are four active volcanoes in Costa Rica and five inactive ones, which are popular tourist attractions. The remaining 370 are known but are not as significant.

Continuing our journey, we visited another trail, but before that, we stopped to admire a lake and witness one of the day’s highlights. We watched in awe as spider monkeys swung gracefully from tree to tree. Around ten of them gracefully leaped from one branch to another. It was such a remarkable and heartwarming sight to see them in their natural habitat.

Although the trail didn’t offer any remarkable sightings, we enjoyed a slow walk through the area. Upon reaching the end, our van was waiting for us, ready to take us to a nearby restaurant for a well-deserved and satisfying lunch.

After lunch, some people headed home, while others went straight to the hot springs. The four of us opted to visit the waterfall. We had a short drive, followed by a descent of 500 steps before reaching it. The waterfall was impressive! I debated whether to take a swim, but eventually, my adventurous side won out, and I jumped in. The rocks were slippery and varied in size, requiring being careful with our steps. I slipped a couple of times but fortunately didn’t injure myself.

After taking a swim and capturing some photos, we dried off, changed clothes, and began our ascent. Tin and I challenged ourselves to make it all the way up without a break, and we succeeded.

Upon reaching the top, we made our way directly to the hot springs. We were given admission tickets and agreed to spend an hour and a half there. Yulian treated us to a cocktail—rum with soda—which was enjoyable.

At the Relax Termalitas complex, there were five hot pools, two cold pools, and a jacuzzi. We managed to experience them all, chill, share laughs, and round off the day perfectly. Since we were fatigued from our earlier hike, and the weather wasn’t overly warm, the hot pools provided a soothing experience.

Around 4:30 pm, we headed back to the hotel. Upon arrival, we hung up all our wet items to dry. I also washed my socks, which were particularly smelly due to being soaked in rainwater all day.

After a brief rest, we visited the store to purchase some snacks. We found that the supermarket was quite expensive, with prices matching or exceeding those in Croatia.

As we were pretty tired, with returning to the hotel, we called it a night.

Additional notes

• There are four types of rain, with the first being “Pelo de Gato” (weak rain, “cat hair”). On this day, the second type of rain fell, occasionally transitioning to “Lluvia,” which is the third type, and then there’s the strongest type.
• The wind blowing on the volcano is referred to as “Julian.” It’s called upon when the weather becomes unbearably hot.
• Yulian was the first person to inform us that he knows Luka Modric and recognizes Croatia as a country that was part of the former Yugoslavia. This was a pleasant surprise, as we didn’t expect them to be familiar with our history (and we are not very knowledgeable about theirs either).
• While we were at the hot springs, another group from Red Lava providers joined us, and their guide asked about our origins. Upon learning that we were from Croatia, he expressed great enthusiasm. It was his first encounter with people from Croatia, and he seemed genuinely delighted. Later that evening, when we bumped into him at the store, he greeted us with a cheerful “Hi, my Croatian friends.” We greeted each other, and he and his friend wished us a wonderful rest of our vacation.

9.4., Tuesday, Day 3

The morning began with breakfast at the hotel, where we enjoyed a traditional meal consisting of gallo pinto, toast, and eggs, fruits, freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee, and tea. It was satisfying and plentiful.

With our pick-up scheduled for Canyoning and Rappelling at 8:45, we had enough time to prepare. We were advised to bring spare clothes for after the activity, assuming we might get a bit wet. However, we ended up completely wet.

At the arrival, we completed necessary paperwork, stored all our belongings in lockers, and were brought to the starting point of the trail. After we set the gear including helmets and gloves, one of the guides briefed us on rappelling technique: using the left hand for stability and the right hand to control descent speed.

The first waterfall was 50 meters high. Personally, I was terrified, but after trying it, it transformed into an exhilarating experience.

As I approached the edge, I told the guys about my fear, but they reassured me, emphasizing their presence both above and below, which left no room for apprehension. With that, I assumed the starting position and started going donwn. And indeed, it was fantastic!

During the tour, I felt something walking on me, though I couldn’t see what or where it was precisely. As I turned around, I felt a bite too. Fellow tourists noticed a 1cm ant on me and immediately removed it. The irritation stung and was painful but ultimately harmless. I asked if I needed any additional treatment besides a cream for soothing the irritation, and they assured me that black ants are not dangerous.

It was an hour of truly unforgettable experience, and it absolutely lived up to our expectations. We were filled with happiness and contentment. The guys working there added to the excitement and atmosphere; they were reassuring, robust, and clearly skilled at their job. Ensuring our safety was their top priority, while also ensuring we had fun.

Once we finished, they escorted us to retrieve our belongings and then to their base. There, we had a satisfying lunch along with coffee and juice. We also had the opportunity to purchase some photos, which we gladly did. It was impossible to resist; we wanted to preserve the memory.

The rain came down heavily, almost as if it were being poured from a bucket, and I couldn’t help but be fascinated by it. Nevertheless, experiencing rain in the rainforest felt truly authentic. Additionally, the rain only served to elevate the atmosphere and excitement of the entire activity. Overall, it was an incredible experience.

After lunch, we were taken back to the hotel. We decided to take a break and watch a movie, after which we attempted to send postcards. However, we gave up because the post office was crowded. About fifteen people were waiting in line, and we had an activity in an hour.

Returning to the hotel, we rested a bit more before heading to the nearby Cooking Class, a three-minute walk away.

The session started with a tour of their farm, showing their crops, including cocoa, coffee, sugar cane, pineapples, yucca, cinnamon trees, and even goats. We also tried some sugar cane juice and sampled a liquor made from sugar cane.

Upon returning to the restaurant, we were greeted by the chef. Our guide explained that we would be preparing ceviche—a mix of fish, onions, cilantro, lemon, and spices. Each of us contributed to the preparation; I chopped the onions. We mixed the vegetables with the pre-sliced fish and seasoned the mix, and left it to marinate for twenty minutes.

During that time, we made empanadas. Additionally, we also made fried plantains (patacones) to accompany the empanadas.

We enjoyed our meal, engaging in nice conversation with the rest of the group, had some juice, and after washing the dishes, we returned to the hotel and decided to just go to sleep.

10.4., Wednesday, Day 4

After another satisfying breakfast, we prepared for our next adventure, the River Float.

We were picked up at 7:55 and driven to the river. They inflated the rafts, provided us with safety vests, and divided us into two boats. Our boat had five members. We paddled a bit but mostly relaxed during the ride.

Floating down the river was enjoyable, despite not seeing much. We did spot various wildlife like lizards, iguanas, monkeys, and birds…

The only disappointment was not spotting a sloth.

After disembarking, we walked to a nearby farm where we got delicious banana bread and other treats. We also explored the farm, enjoying the company of the horses.

The whole activity ended around noon when they took us back to the hotel. We decided to rest and watch a movie before finally sending the postcards.

This time, the post office wasn’t crowded, so we were done in no time. We took a brief walk around La Fortuna to see its sights.

Back at the hotel, we changed into swimsuits and headed to a rope swing by a waterfall (El Salto). However, it was muddy and tricky to descent, so we decided not to swim or jump. We returned to the hotel and opted for a relaxing day.

11.4., Thursday, Day 5